By Nancy Vallarella
Move over zucchini, there’s a new squash in town! Meet cucuzza, the long and winding gourd that’s making waves, especially among Italian Americans. Known by many names, cucuzza also goes by Cuccuzzi, Sicilian Snake Squash, and the fan-favorite: Gagootz.
Speaking of gagootz, ever watch The Sopranos? Remember when Tony called his son, Anthony Jr., a “gagootz”? It’s his way of saying the kid’s being a knucklehead—acting clueless. But here’s the kicker: the Soprano family hails from Avellino in Campania, not Sicily. So, technically, that’s not quite right. Still, Italian Americans across the board have adopted the term, and it often refers to someone who’s… well, a bit empty-headed. Just like a hollow squash. See the connection?
Fresh cucuzza is pale green, smooth, shiny, and thin-skinned, with firm white flesh packed with tiny seeds. It has a mild, slightly sweet flavor. If you pick it young, it’s tender, but leave it on the vine too long, and you’ve got yourself a gagootz—hollow and tough!
To enjoy your cucuzza at its best, store it in a cool, dry place or in the fridge for up to a week. Any longer, and it turns bitter and tough. Need to stock up? No worries—peel, chop, and freeze it for later.
When it comes to cooking, this squash shines in Italian cuisine. It’s a superstar in soups, stews, sautéed with garlic, onions, and tomatoes, or even stuffed, roasted, and grilled. Got a sweet tooth? Cucuzza can also be turned into jams and desserts! And here’s a health bonus: it’s low in calories, packed with fiber, vitamins A and C, and has tiny amounts of potassium and magnesium. Plus, with its high-water content, cucuzza is perfect for staying cool during those hot summer days.
Cucuzza thrives in warm climates and hits its peak harvest on Long Island in July and August. If you’re craving some fresh cucuzza, head over to Suffolk County—check out Pumpkin Patch in Yaphank, Lenny Bruno Farms in Manorville, or Hank’s Farmstand in Center Moriches. You’re in for a treat!
But wait, there’s more! Cucuzza vines aren’t just about squash. Home growers can also harvest the leaves and tendrils—called tenerumi—and use them to add flavor to dishes. I learned this first-hand when a true Sicilian nonna sent me a care package filled with cucuzza soup.
Nonna Mondi (pictured left), who came to Long Island in 1972 from Palermo, Sicily, passed down this family treasure through her son Joe. Joe translated the recipe as Nonna guided me—no measurements, just love and high-quality ingredients. She even gave me some tenerumi tips: “The leaves can’t be burnt by the sun. Wash each leaf in salt water one at a time, organize by size, and cut into 1-to-2-inch strips.” Think of it like chopping spinach.
Nonna Mondi’s soup was unforgettable. You could taste the love in every bite. So, thank you, Nonna Mondi and Giuseppe, for sharing this dish with me. It’s now a cherished part of my culinary repertorio.
With some research and online recipes—check out mangiawithmichele.com, I was able to put together a recipe to guide you on your very own Cucuzza journey!
Buon appetito!
Cucuzza Soup (Sicilian Squash Soup)
Ingredients:
¼ cup olive oil
2 cups diced yellow onions
½ cup chopped fresh basil, divided + more for serving
2-3 Tbsp thinly sliced or chopped garlic
Pinch crushed red pepper
1-2 cucuzza squash (See NOTES.)
6 – 10 cucuzza leaves and shoots (tenerumi) if available (fresh – not burnt by the sun) washed thoroughly in salted water. Cut into 1-to- 2-inch pieces. It should resemble chopped spinach. (optional)
8 cups low or no-sodium vegetable or chicken broth
1 dozen large diced plum tomatoes peeled and seeded +3/4 cup of water or 1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, crushed by hand + ¾ cup of water – (Canned tomatoes are not Nonna Mondi approved)
1 pecorino or parmesan rind
1 Tbsp or large pinch saffron (optional but recommended)
2 tsp salt (or to taste)
½ tsp black pepper (or to taste)
4 ounces spaghetti, broken into bite-sized (2 inch) pieces (1/4 pound)
Grated pecorino or parmesan cheese (optional for serving)
Extra virgin olive (optional for serving)
Directions:
Gather and prep all ingredients according to specifications above.
Add the 8 cups of broth to a medium sized pot and bring to a simmer. Add cut leaves and shoots (tenerumi) to the broth.
Bring broth to a boil and stir in pasta. Cook until pasta is al dente (1-2 minutes less than recommended). Using a slotted spoon or spider remove pasta from broth and set aside. You can add some extra virgin olive oil to the pasta to prevent sticking. Set the pot with the broth to the side.
Prep the cucuzza squash: Slice off and discard the ends then cut the squash down into more manageable pieces. Peel it, then deseed the large ends of the cucuzza using a small spoon. You may need to peel the cucuzza twice if the texture is gritty (which may happen with older squash).
Then, cut the squash into bite sized pieces/chunks or thin half/quarter moons.
Heat oil in a 6-quart (or larger) pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add onions, half the basil, garlic and crushed red pepper and cook until the onions have softened a bit, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. You can cover the pot to speed this process along if you want.
Add the cucuzza pieces, stir and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes.
Then, add 2 cups broth and deglaze, scraping up any brown bits on the bottom of the pot. Increase the heat to medium. Add the rest of the broth, tomatoes, ¾ cup of water, cheese rind, saffron, salt, and black pepper and stir.
Cover the pot and bring it to a simmer. Then, partially cover and simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes (or until the cucuzza is mostly tender). This time is approximate as older squash will take longer to cook. Adjust seasoning.
Put ¼ cup of pasta in a bowl and ladle soup on top.
Serve piping hot unadorned or lightly topped with a sprinkle of grated pecorino cheese, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, some additional fresh basil, and some crusty bread. I used garlic chives for additional garnish.
Notes
Can’t find cucuzza? If you don’t have a source for this veggie, this and other cucuzza recipes can 100% be made with zucchini (or even yellow squash). Zucchini and yellow squash cook quicker than cucuzza.
This recipe was made using 2 medium cucuzza squash (weighing 3 pounds, 10 ounces) and makes a large batch (about 15 cups). It can easily be cut in half for a smaller batch, but it does freeze well!
As cucuzza is technically a gourd, it has a thicker skin that must be peeled and large seeds that should be removed. Younger, smaller cucuzza have softer seeds which can be left in when cooking and eaten. The older the cucuzza, the tougher the seeds.
If you don’t have saffron, don’t let that keep you from making this soup. It will still be delicious! Saffron does make it extra special.
Broken spaghetti, fettuccine, thin capellini (broken up) or small pastas work in this recipe.
Add more liquid (water or broth) if the soup becomes too thick.
If you prefer a vegan soup, just leave out the cheese rind and be sure to use vegetable broth.
Don’t forget to remove any remaining cheese rind before serving.
If you are lucky enough to get your hands on tenerumi, which are the leaves and shoots of cucuzza squash, add some to this soup! (you may need to increase the broth and seasoning a bit if you do).
The soup can be stored in the refrigerator in an air-tight container for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Consider portioning extra soup into containers to enjoy down the road! Reheat it slowly over medium low heat while stirring, adding additional broth or water if needed.
Long Island Locavore was created by Nancy Vallarella. Managing farmer’s markets, creating recipes, and giving food demonstrations all contribute to bringing awareness to all things farmed, fished, foraged, and produced on Long Island!
Fore more recipes, or to as a question, DM @lilocavore495 on Instagram or contact her via email at [email protected].
